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Opinions on the PDP mk stick

9.95

Noob
For MK9, I can use the PDP TE, the better quality PDP Klassic, AIAB, and a MAS SF Layout... what matters to me is that I play on American style sticks for MK.
 

9.95

Noob
What I CAN'T do, is use either PDP to comfortably play any of the old school MK games... for them, definitely AIAB.
 

aj1701

Noob
I just got a used mk te pdp ps3 stick. Anyone know what parts are already in it? I was planning to get il convex buttons bc I dont think I care got the concave, but would still like to know what the stock are and stick as well.

Also I was planning on replacing the pcb with a ps360+ as I think I read its not common ground.. Plus seems like it'd be easier for my first soldering mod.

Tia
 

G4S Claude VonStroke

@MK_ClaudeVS on twitter
That post was five months ago.

I get what youre trying to do, but its getting annoying that youre spamming threads like this.
You have NO idea what it takes to actually do something like a raffle in this community when most people wait until the last minute to do shit. It's very frustrating. Almost all of that stuff is my personal stuff. If I don't spam it, people won't know about it. Even yesterday friends of mine still didn't know about it. So please.
 

aj1701

Noob
You have NO idea what it takes to actually do something like a raffle in this community when most people wait until the last minute to do shit. It's very frustrating. Almost all of that stuff is my personal stuff. If I don't spam it, people won't know about it. Even yesterday friends of mine still didn't know about it. So please.
So bump your own thread, don't derail this one or others just because someone asks about the mk te stick.
 

aj1701

Noob
I just got a used mk te pdp ps3 stick. Anyone know what parts are already in it? I was planning to get il convex buttons bc I dont think I care got the concave, but would still like to know what the stock are and stick as well.

Also I was planning on replacing the pcb with a ps360+ as I think I read its not common ground.. Plus seems like it'd be easier for my first soldering mod.

Tia
Dark_Rob I'm hoping you know something about this stick.

Having played it, I'd bet its not IL parts. Does anyone see any issues replacing the stick and buttons with IL? Also want to replace the pcb with a ps360+. This is a smaller practice mod for me.
 

Dark_Rob

Noob
Dark_Rob I'm hoping you know something about this stick.

Having played it, I'd bet its not IL parts. Does anyone see any issues replacing the stick and buttons with IL? Also want to replace the pcb with a ps360+. This is a smaller practice mod for me.
It depends on which model you got. If its the original T.E.(the one with with the opening lid) then it comes stock with all chinese HAPP parts. Including their garbage E-switch microswitches. So youll want to swap them out.

For the Klassic stick, the stick and buttons themselves are still made by HAPP but they used the far superior Cherry microswitches. The micro switches are the biggest difference between I.L. and Happ. Happs and I.L.s that are equipped with Cherrys are virtually indistinguishable from each other. You wouldnt be able to tell just by playing on one and only someone who really knows what their looking for could determine it visually.

I have both, the T.E. and the Klassic. For the T.E. I swapped out the parts. For the Klassic I left it stock.
 

aj1701

Noob
It depends on which model you got. If its the original T.E.(the one with with the opening lid) then it comes stock with all chinese HAPP parts. Including their garbage E-switch microswitches. So youll want to swap them out.

For the Klassic stick, the stick and buttons themselves are still made by HAPP but they used the far superior Cherry microswitches. The micro switches are the biggest difference between I.L. and Happ. Happs and I.L.s that are equipped with Cherrys are virtually indistinguishable from each other. You wouldnt be able to tell just by playing on one and only someone who really knows what their looking for could determine it visually.

I have both, the T.E. and the Klassic. For the T.E. I swapped out the parts. For the Klassic I left it stock.
Thanks Rob. It was the TE with storage compartment; I got that one spefically because it would be easy to get to the parts and mod.

I'm assuming IL parts should just fit in just fine, including a new IL joystick?
 

9.95

Noob
Thanks Rob. It was the TE with storage compartment; I got that one spefically because it would be easy to get to the parts and mod.

I'm assuming IL parts should just fit in just fine, including a new IL joystick?
You won't actually need a new IL Joystick unless you're looking to change the color. As Dark_Rob already said, they are virtually indistinguishable once you put in the actual Cherry brand microswitches.
 

aj1701

Noob
You won't actually need a new IL Joystick unless you're looking to change the color. As Dark_Rob already said, they are virtually indistinguishable once you put in the actual Cherry brand microswitches.
Oh really? Does the stock joystick feel like an IL would? It seems pretty stiff to me, but the only other stick I've played on is a Sanwa. If its just a matter of the microswitches, I'll replace just those for the stick. I do want to get convex buttons though, so I supposed the buttons + cherry switches are what I'd want, correct?

Thanks for all the info!
 

9.95

Noob
Oh really? Does the stock joystick feel like an IL would? It seems pretty stiff to me, but the only other stick I've played on is a Sanwa. If its just a matter of the microswitches, I'll replace just those for the stick. I do want to get convex buttons though, so I supposed the buttons + cherry switches are what I'd want, correct?

Thanks for all the info!
Generally speaking, yeah, that's the only real difference. The only other thing you could change that can, but doesn't always, make a difference, is the square actuator on the bottom of the joystick(it's that black square thing that physically hits the microswitches). The IL one is white, the Suzo/Happ one is black...and I personally prefer the IL one, but I have the stock Suzo/Happ one in my Klassic PDP and its perfect.

I also prefer the convex buttons, but if you don't want to spend the $$, you'll get used to the concave pretty quickly... it's a matter of using the edge of the button instead of the center, that's all.

In terms of stiffness, the IL or Happ will always feel stiff compared to a Sanwa. The Sanwa is made for virtually no resistance, whereas the IL and Happ have stronger springs in them so that the stick will "spring" back to the neutral position.
 

Hemlock

Noob
two cents: I have a MadCatz Fightstick Pro (bought it just to play MK) and it actually changed my game a lot. I recommend it. The real bummer is that it wasn't made in the USA. The PDP one looks awesome, and maybe one day I'll get one if I happen upon a good deal, but I think I really like the 4 attack buttons close together for rapid pressing.
 

aj1701

Noob
Generally speaking, yeah, that's the only real difference. The only other thing you could change that can, but doesn't always, make a difference, is the square actuator on the bottom of the joystick(it's that black square thing that physically hits the microswitches). The IL one is white, the Suzo/Happ one is black...and I personally prefer the IL one, but I have the stock Suzo/Happ one in my Klassic PDP and its perfect.

I also prefer the convex buttons, but if you don't want to spend the $$, you'll get used to the concave pretty quickly... it's a matter of using the edge of the button instead of the center, that's all.

In terms of stiffness, the IL or Happ will always feel stiff compared to a Sanwa. The Sanwa is made for virtually no resistance, whereas the IL and Happ have stronger springs in them so that the stick will "spring" back to the neutral position.
Great, thanks for all that. I'll just get the cherry switches for the stick then, and go convex buttons (I like them better). I do want to keep it fairly close to what it is, just make it a better stick by having good switches, convex buttons and dual modded. :)